Wednesday, 3 August 2016

Episode 18 part two - Walkabout - The Return of... us


I wake up. There is no no-one watching me as there was when I fell asleep. Lit by the dim glow of the solar light which was left on all night, I can just make the family who kindly let us stay with them, asleep on the raised sleeping area beside us. To be fair, it is only five o’clock in the morning, but we know that we have a long journey ahead of us and we want to leave at first light. We get ready as quietly as we can, but try as we might to not disturb our host family, they all wake up and want to make sure the send us on a proper fair well. We gather our wet clothing from the night before from around the village where it had been left in a variety of places to dry out. All apart from Lukas’ t-shirt that is, which seems destined now to spend the rest of its life in the middle of the jungle… Fortunately he packed a spare. Having gather most of our belongings we say our goodbyes, climb the small wooden fence out of the village, and carry on our journey.
The village in the light of day
The path continued as it left off, only better lit now which was a great blessing. My calves were sore from the night before but didn’t feel like they were going to cramp up which was a huge relief. The path was steep and slippery, but we knew that we had a large decent to make. Confusingly when the path wasn’t going sharply down, it was going sharply back up, which was strange given that we were trying to go down the mountain, but it seems there is never a straight path in the jungle. The first hour was hard going. Beautiful and amazing, and I enjoyed every second of it, but it was hard, and I wasn’t sure if I could keep it up for the whole day. The second hour was the same, and so was the third. Whenever we asked our guide how far away from the river where the path would flatten out we were, he would just reply “klostu”, which means, you guessed it, close to… Despite this we certainly didn’t lose heart as we were buoyed on by the stunning scenery, the beautiful birdsong, and even getting to see a hornbill. It was amazing too to watch how the jungle changed as we descended the mountain, leaving the highlands behind and entering the lowlands. It’s hard to describe as it is all distinctly “jungly”, and I’m not really familiar enough with any of it to describe it particularly well. It was noticeable further down that leaves on the ground displayed autumn colours, which is strange in a place where the season of autumn doesn’t exist.
"Jungly trees..."
Eventually we burst out of the jungle and onto a riverbank, the sight of which alone was refreshing. Water cascaded down the valley, the sound of birdsong filled the air, somehow different here, and butterflies of all kinds of vibrant colours flew around us, seeming playing with each other and seemingly beckoning us to join them. We took the most of the opportunity to rest and refresh, washing in the river, and simply drinking in this place. After half an hour, we knew that we had to carry on.
Our oasis
Foolishly we thought that at this point the path would follow along the river and become flat. We were wrong. Immediately we were lead up a path at the side of the river and back into the forest. We would weave our way up and down through the forest for a while, until we appeared by the riverside once again, which seemed to spring out of the jungle like an oasis, complete with butterflies basking in the sunshine. We would carry along by the side of the river for a short way, before re-entering the jungle, and repeating the process again. I can’t remember a point at which the path became easier, but over time the jouney seemed not so hard. I can’t decide if this was because my body started getting used to the terrain, or I got used to every part of my body aching, either way, I was glad that it no longer entered my mind, not that it ever detracted any from the journey.
Back down to the river
We stopped again by the river lunch and refilled our water bottles. Up to this point, we had only seen three people. A fisherman in the river, and two young hunters in the forest, who so far had not caught anything. We stopped for only half an hour as we knew that we would be pushed for time if we wanted to get to the high way in time to catch a PMV and get back to Goroka before dark, whilst it was still safe. As we continued, it started to become noticeable that the jungle was thinning out, but even then our path didn’t become straight forward. We passed a small village, I say village, it was just one house with a family of about six living in it. They welcomed us warmly and chatted to us, but after a while, they told us that we couldn’t continue along this path as it was closed. Thinking that it had most probably become impassable by a landslide, we asked why. We didn’t expect the answer we got. “Last night the dogs barked”, the old lady explained, “they barked because there were evil spirits about, so you cannot go along the path”. It’s quite hard to argue with that, so we didn’t. We turned back as the lady beckoned us to and thanked her greatly for the papaya that she gifted to us for our journey. She made a point of telling us that it had come from inside the house, so the evil spirits couldn’t have poisoned it.
Butterflies enjoying the sunshine on the edge of the river
We carried along our new path eager to make up for the time we had lost, but it wasn’t long until we came to another small village by the river. The people hear were eager for us to spend time with them, to chat and for them to take photos with us. We enjoyed meeting them and Tocsi and Jethro were in no hurry to leave, enjoying the tobacco and beetle nut they were given, and wanting to make the most of what they knew to be the last proper shade of the journey. Eventually we made our excuses and carried on our way. We soon the river and enter a vast plane of grass land, a sea of green, quite something to behold. We followed the narrow path through tall grasses well beyond our wastes, such a complete contrast to the jungle that we had left. After a while we stepped down from the grassland into a dried up river bed. It was oddly like walking along the beach with pebbles and fine grey sand. It provided a nice flat path to walk upon, but also acted like an oven, reflected the heat of the sun which now baked us from both above and below.
Total change of scenery
The dried up river bed occasionally drew alongside the main river which still flowed freely. Realising that we were not going to make it back to the highway in time to get a PMV back, we decided to slow our pace, rest in the cooling streams, eat our papaya, and work out a new plan. Jethro has family who lives near the highway and he suggested that they would be happy for us to stay with them, we would then only be a short walk from the PMV stop in the morning. This sounded good to all of us and after resting a while, we set off with a new destination in mind.
A beach in the middle of an island
We continued along the dry riverbed until popping back up into the tall grasses. Trees now started to appear again, as the landscape changed once more. We soon came to another village. A couple of high pitched squeals were heard from nearby and we were suddenly welcomed very warmly. It was immediately obvious that this was not just a friendly welcome, but these were friends of Jethro’s, even if this wasn’t his family’s village. We were beckoned to sit on a patch of green grass in the middle of the village and we watched as a man disappeared up a tree with a machete. Six loud thuds later and we were each presented with a fresh coconut each. What a delicious refreshing, and energy giving delight. A fresh coconut beats any fancy “sports drink” you can get at your local supermarket! And to boot, once you finish drinking it, you can smash it open and you get a delicious snack too! After being refreshed once more, we continued on our way until we reached the Ramu River.
Refuelling
The six of us joined by a few young men from the local village stand on the shore of the river, solo with rubber ring in hand, as the torrent races past us. We stare into the water. We knew something like this was coming. We just didn’t know what exactly. Every decision has a cost. You see, last night we decided that today we would deviate from the planned route. Our planed route involved go up and down a further two mountains that this route didn’t have. But there was also one other thing that our planned route had that this one didn’t have. A bridge. Thankfully, the men from the local village are experienced at crossing this river. They each take one of our bags, lift them high above their heads, and one by one stride purposefully into the river. Their legs and bodies quickly disappear until all that remains is their heads and their arms, bouncing through the river, slowly going forwards, quickly going sideways, until they come out perfectly on a flat shoreline a short way down river, our bags not even getting a drop of water on them. Johannes, Lukas and myself look at each other. Our eyes widen and our eyebrows raise. We turn look at the river once more. We turn back to each other. We slowly shrug our shoulders and head forward into our fate.
Little did we know what we were walking towards
Jethro grabs my hand as we stride into the river. We quickly get taken downstream, but continue to make good progress. We head towards the shallower water by our exit. As I step towards it a rush of water sweeps me off my feet, all that holds me in place is Jethro’s hand. I look up towards him and he smiles at me. I wave my feet forlornly towards the ground, trying with all my might to force them to touch the ground. My toes brush against the river bed just enough to help propel me towards the shoreline, until I can plant my feet firmly in the shallows. I beam a smile at Jethro and his eyes twinkle. No words need to be said.
The other side
We made it. Made it across the first river that is. There are two almost identical stretches of water, and so we do the whole thing again, only this time knowing more fully what lay before us. I’m unsure as to whether or not that helped, but none the less we made it, and we carried on our way. We followed the river a short way, then crossed more grass land, until incredibly, out of nowhere, we arrived at the highway! We had completed our trek!
We made it!
We carried on a short way along the highway to Jethro’s village, we were well looked after by his family and slept in the cookhaus (kitchen/store room). I stroked a baby Cassowary. We left early, hitched a ride in the back of a pick-up, and then got a PMV back to Goroka, in which I fell asleep. I did make it safely back to Goroka, with all of my stuff (including all my t-shirts) and with an adventure in my heart that I will never forget. 
Jethro's village

Sunday, 31 July 2016

Episode 18 - Walkabout


As I lay my head down to sleep, the quiet mummer of chattering fills the dimly lit hut in which I am staying. I look up at the grass roof and know that above it there is nothing but sky which is peeked at through the small clearing in the jungle canopy. I am quite literally spending the night in the middle of the jungle. Childhood dream achieved. I still can’t quite believe that I am here. But I should probably explain how it is that I came to be here. Lukas’s Sister and Brother-in-law have come to stay with him for a few weeks and he wanted to give his brother-in-law, Johannes, a real taste of Papua New Guinea. So he drove deep into the remote villages until the road was barely passable anymore and asked around to see if he could find anyone who would be willing to act as a guide through some of the truly remote areas, and who could find a place to stay the night. He succeeded, arranged a date, and invited me to tag along.

Locals using our track to get goods to market
So at one o’clock on Friday we all met outside the local corner shop; Tocsi - the man Lukas met, Solo - Tocsi’s son (presumably not named after one of the greatest spacecraft pilots that the galaxy has ever seen, but I like to think that there’s a chance), Jethro – Tocsi’s relative and fellow guide for our trip, Lukas, Johannes, and myself. We walked to the nearby PMV (public motor vehicle) stop and after letting Tocsi work out which PMV we wanted, jumped into the back of an open top truck and we were on our way! Stood at the front we held on to the guard rail. I had a nice chat with one of the locals who I think thereafter felt responsible for my safety, so he held onto the rail one hand either side of me trapping my in a strange kind of bear hug. It was a lovely act of kindness to help keep me safe, but it did feel quite strange!
The road to the start of the walk
A couple of hours later we made it as far as the road went, and to the beginning of our walk. The pace was fast straight from the off. I could just keep up, but if I stopped to take a photo then I wouldn’t catch up unless they stopped for me. I was soon identified as the weak link in the group and the one who needed looking after, which I must admit hurt my pride a little. But, when I first arrived to PNG Michael warned me that this country has an ability to strip away all of a person’s pride, and it soon became apartment that Tocsi’s judgement was not misplaced. In my (now to be seen as mistaken) wisdom I decided to wear my hiking sandals as I knew there would be many river crossings. Whilst I did save much time going across rivers, they lacked grip on steeper parts of the tracks, and once they were muddy my feet moved around in them quite a lot so they now look like the surface of a strange planet! Despite being the only one with this superior grip in the river, I was also the only one to fall into the river. No trouble caused though – only a slight bruise to my ego and a temporarily broken phone (so I’m afraid there are no photo’s until Lukas sends me his) Tocsi kept suggesting that he should carry my bag for me, but I didn’t like the idea of someone else having to carry my bag for me. Or to put it another way, my pride got in the way.
A narrower part of the river

The path was very rarely wider than the length of my foot, and with the rain cutting out gullies in the path, sometimes narrower than the width of my foot. The path followed the river for the most part. Sometimes this meant that the path was a river. Other times it meant the river was the path. As well as going along the river, the path took us along rocky cliffs with sheer sides and dense jungle, so dense in parts that if you fell to the side it repelled you and threw you back on to the path. The path went up and down (but rarely ever flat), we scrambled up slopes, jumped off missing parts of path and walked along felled trees where there was no other path. It was great fun, probably my favourite kind of walking, but it is also very tiring. And I am, it turns out, not as fit as I thought.
The path is there somewhere...
As we carried on, I started not keep up with the pace and the others would have to stop more frequently to allow me to catch up. My calves started to cramp a little (which was disconcerting because my legs have never cramped up on a hike before) and I started to fall over, which was both embarrassing and frustrating. As the mist rolled in, the downhill path got slippier, my calves started to hurt more, I started to fall more often and dark started to set in, I realised as Tocsi offered to carry my bag once again, that this time I had to accept.
My Hero
This felt like a low. A humiliation. A defeat. But at the same time, I didn’t care anymore. Something more important was at stake. I didn’t want to slow my companions down any more. I wanted us to make it to our place of rest before it went dark. I just wanted to make it. I didn’t fall down any less. In fact I fell down more. A lot more. But that’s okay, I’m actually quite good at falling (anyone who’s ever been snowboarding with me will attest to that). And  I didn’t care if I fell any more (although I’ll confess to wondering how pathetic they must think I was, and could only hope that they’d give me credit for the fact that no matter how many times I fell down, I got back up again). I may have fell down more often, but I also sped up, fear of falling no longer slowed me down and I was often helped up or steadied by either one of the guides, or one of the lovely children who would seemingly appear and disappear from nowhere. One of the boys even cut a stick for me to help steady me. It actually did help a lot, although I felt like I was piloting a gondola and I suspect I looked like a very poor amateur downhill skier complete with dramatic falls and oohs and aahs from the crowd.
That's the path - behind us and to the right
But try as I might, spurred on zealously from this new freedom, night time waits for no man. Dark set in and we still had not made it. It had started to rain and my legs we’re periodically cramping up much worse than I have ever felt before (to the extent that all I could do was curl up into a ball and mumble). I had no idea how far away the house we were staying at was, nor how far I could walk, but I just had to pray and keep going. And that prayer felt slightly, like giving my bag to Tocsi, like this was my mess and my responsibility and I shouldn’t be giving it over to someone who hasn’t caused it and He wants to help, if only we’ll let Him. I also realised that I was four hours from the nearest road, and didn’t know how my legs would feel in the morning, but I couldn’t worry about that now, I’d have to face that tomorrow. It also brought home a very real truth for the people who live in this place. The nearest aid post is right back where we started our walk, so if someone gets sick then somehow they have to make the journey that I’m struggling on – whilst being unwell! And this path was not just used in emergencies. The village we were heading to grows coffee and they have to take it to Goroka to sell. That means making this journey and then the two hour PMV ride, whilst heavy laden with coffee! And this isn’t an unusual village, this is an everyday reality for many in PNG. With this reality check clearly in my mind, I got up and carried on.
Dark really is dark here
Eventually our torch light made out the outline of a small group of buildings. We had made it! Worn out and wet through, but we had made it! As I stepped into the small hut of the family who had very kindly agreed to let us stay with them for the night, my eyes were met by the glow of a roaring fire, the very sight of which warmed my heart. The house was is no bigger than a small sitting room with a raised area on two sides of the room for sleeping, with the fire on the floor. About twenty people (some from other houses) either stood or sat around the fire perched on the edge of the sleeping area. But I had no time to take any of this in before a small old lady had burst out of the smoke and wrapped her arms tightly around me drawing me into a hug. There are no words to express the joy that this brought to my soul. Except maybe to say that it made me want to cry. I was tired, wet, hungry and hurting. I had everything to gain from being here. She had nothing to gain from me being here, but she was just delighted that I had made it. I felt loved accepted and welcomed. I had hoped to find my needs of warmth shelter and food met, but I found much more. Although the former was very gratefully received too.
The crowd
We pulled out some supplies from our bags and the lady of the house cooked it for us. We sat around and talked and shared stories. We shared tea, and gave a couple of gifts to say thank you. And then we got ready for bed. Whilst every one watched us. I can’t say I’ve ever had such a large audience watch as I got changed before, but I guess that’s village life…
The view from our sleeping bags
As I close my eyes and go to sleep, I have a lot to reflect upon. How lucky I am to be in this place. To see the things I have seen today. To have heard the bird song and smelt the flowers. To be with this family that has shown us such loving kindness. To have made new friendships with Tocsi and Jethro and for the help they have given me in getting here. For all the day has brought, yes, but also much more. What life in a jungle village really means, both the hardships and the joys. About pride and how we let it get in the way. How we hide our weakness from other people (and sometimes ourselves and God) instead of letting people help. How I can get caught up in version of me that I’d like to be, or think other people think I ought to be instead of knowing who I truly am, both strengths and weakness and holding true to that so that I can be the best me there ever could be. How it’s okay to fall, and that God will catch us if we let Him. That we don’t have to be good at everything. That’s okay. We not expected to get life right all the time either. We are all learning, and there is only one teacher. We will make mistakes. We will fall down. A lot. But God wants to help us back up again. But the deepest thought of all is how impressive it is that Jesus walked so far in sandals!



TUNE IN ON WEDNESDAY FOR A MIDWEEK SPECIAL TO FIND OUT HOW THE JOURNEY ENDS AND WHETHER OR NOT I MAKE IT BACK ALIVE!*



*spoiler alert; there are no blogging facilities in the middle of the jungle…

Sunday, 24 July 2016

Episode 17 - Let the games begin


The scene is filled with plumes of smoke as our protagonist stands victorious in the centre of the stage with the spoils of war in his hands. Now before you get carried away, this might not be quite what you imagine. For in this instance, the smoke is not caused by the burning of conquered territories, the spoils of war are not mounds of treasure, and the protagonist is not some muscly hero. No. Rather, the smoke is caused by rubbish being burnt on nearby fires (as fills much of Goroka), the spoils of war are two bunches of bananas, and the protagonist is, well, me.

The face of a hero if I ever saw one...

I don’t like shopping. I never have. I probably never will. But I do like games. And if there is one thing that could possibly make the weekly shop more entertaining, it would be turning into a game – something which Goroka market gets. Now I’m not talking about the kinda of game where you have to barter with every market seller to get your goods at a reasonable price, because I would do very badly at this. In fact, I suspect that I would end up paying more than the price we began with if this were the case. Fortunately the prices of everything in the market are clearly labelled, so that there can be no doubt what something costs. No, the game is; race around the market to get all of your shopping as quickly as possible whilst getting as little mud (or spat out beetle nut) on you as possible.


The arena!


This may sound simple, but it is made more difficult by the narrow paths through market, the occasional fords, and the mass of moving barricades that the market has installed just for the purposes of this game (normal people call these barricades “other shoppers”). Wheelbarrows and pigs will also be encountered upon on occasion. To add to the complexity, you start with only large notes, but the market sellers only have very limited change. This means careful choice must be made as to when to use which size of note, or you may incur a time penalty. This takes the form of the seller going to their friend on the other side of the market to get some more change. Small bonus points are gained for every greeting you are given. Larger bonus points are gained for every compliment you are given (yeah, that’s right, I’ve still got it). Furthermore, even larger bonus points are given for every joke exchanged with a market seller and every high five with a market seller’s child. Points are lost for every bad piece of produce selected and for items missed of the list. But the real prize is getting out of the market with your shopping for the week, and the real score is the size of the smile on your face.

The crowd goes wild as I enter the finishing straight!

Thursday, 21 July 2016

Episode 16 and a half - Amendment

So on Monday, I made mention that I usually had go to up the radio mast when it was necessary because the rest of my team were afraid of heights. When I first mentioned him going up the radio mast soon after I first arrived, Deo gave a high pitched squeak and said no. Actually, what I think he said was nooooooooooooooo! But having noticed that I've been doing a lot of work up the mast recently, today he stepped up to the plate and offered to put the new antenna up for me. He spent most of the day up there today slaving away on the old wobbly radio mast while I lay on the ground below watching. I couldn't be more proud of him! Great work Deo!

That dot at the top is Deo - I promise!





Sunday, 17 July 2016

Episode 16 - A day in the Life


I’m sat on my sofa listening to the sounds of the morning traffic and next doors cockerel out of my window. I sip my cup of tea and wonder what the day has in store for me. Now don’t get me wrong, I have a plan. I even have a carefully crafted scrum board above my desk listing all the things that we as a team need to achieve for the next two weeks. But with all of this in mind, there’s only one thing I know for sure about today – it won’t according to the plan. This is life after all, furthermore, this is life in the self-proclaimed land of the unexpected. Truth be told, I don’t mind this, in fact, I rather enjoy it, even if it does have its challenges. We start every morning with “Lotu”. Lotu directly translates as “worship”. It’s a period of half an hour where everyone who works at CRMF gets together and sings songs to God, reads the bible and prays together. It’s a great way to start the day and a real privilege to be able to do this in my work place. After that, those in my workshop gather around my desk (and the scrum board), and we quickly take it in turns to explain what we each of us did the previous day, what problems we encountered, and what we plan to do today.

The scrum board - a work of love



A lot of the work that happens in my workshop at CRMF falls into what we consider “normal” jobs. These include repairing electronics such as radio’s and solar lamps, as well as planning and also performing installations of solar and radio systems. A lot of what I do at CRMF is not what we consider “normal jobs”. My job is to make sure all of the work gets done. This means making sure all of my team know what needs to be done, and most importantly how to do it, and guiding them when they don’t. It also means that I get all the odd ball jobs that no-one else (sometimes including me) wants, or knows how to do. These include rewriting the solar training course and removing several old antennas from the radio mast. Wherever it is possible I do get the others involved with these too, as it is good training, although the later has been harder as all of my team seem to be afraid of heights…
I don't even know what a twin tub is, but sure I can fix it...

Finally there is the greatest enemy to fulfilling the plan. I call these “Bryans”. They are new and usually urgent jobs that no-one saw coming. I call them Bryans because it’s usually Bryan who brings them to my attention. I am the first line of defence against Bryans. Part of my job is to protect the rest of the team from them so that their plan seems relatively undisturbed. This means working out who best to allocate these jobs to given the work they already have, and then taking up the slack, which is almost always peculiar in form. This can range from hospital sterilisers to our housekeeping washing machine. Our work is very varied which keeps it fun and it’s never hard to see the value of doing each job, which keeps it fulfilling. We are very lucky to do what we do, even if we rarely know what that's going to be in advance. With that final passing thought, I finish my banana, down what’s left of my cuppa and close my bible. It’s time to stop wondering, and find out what the day holds.

Sunday, 10 July 2016

Episode 15 - A good day to live


This week my good friend and colleague Ricky had a very serious asthma attack. So serious in fact, that he stopped breathing. Completely. One minute we were laughing and joking together, the next he’s being rushed to hospital. Now when I consider that last point, I realise how fortunate we are. You see unlike most of Papua New Guinea we have a hospital just five minutes down the road, If we had been in one of the remote villages or even just somewhere out of town, we would have been looking at hours or even days and Ricky would have been dead. But that was not our story and our good fortune did not end there. The four students who had come to CRMF to learn about solar and HF radio installation that week knew CPR, and were able to administer it straight away, otherwise Ricky might not have made even the five minutes to the hospital. But Ricky did make it to the hospital, yet even then the story was not over. The nurses who admitted Ricky did not know what to do for Ricky, and there were no doctors on site to help. Or were there?

Ricky and I digging a hole

Remember those four students who went with Ricky? Well they were all Doctors who served rural communities who had come to CRMF to learn technical skills to bring to those communities who wouldn't have access to any technical support otherwise. Once they explained who they were to the nurses, they started to take control and Ricky quickly got the medicine that he needed. With the quick response of the doctors and the prayers of everyone who knows Ricky, he made an exceptionally quick recovery and the next day I was already back to sharing the usual jokes and laughter with him. It really makes your head spin. How quickly things can fall apart, and how quickly they can come back together again. It has made us all stop and think. There is no doubt God was looking after Ricky and he receives all of our thanks and praises for that. It’s been a reminder to us all how fragile our lives are. It also reminds us how trustworthy He is, the one in whom all our lives rest.


The four Doctors (sounds like the name of a band...)

Sunday, 3 July 2016

Episode 14 - Broadening Horizons

I always knew that when I moved to Papua New Guinea I would some crazy things. Things I wouldn’t do in England, and things that I didn’t expect I’d do. But now I have done something I truly thought I would never do, particularly in Papua New Guinea – I have joined a gym. Now before you conclude that I definitely must have gone crazy and call for me to be airlifted out of here, let me explain that I haven’t had a total character transplant. My motivation for joining is not that I have become fed up of my stick insect physique and want to become shaped like a bodybuilder, but rather one of brotherhood. Going to the gym is the number one activity for the folks at CRMF to do together and it feels good to spend that time together. More than that, in spite of myself, I have to say that actually going to the gym and working out (or gyming as I prefer to call it) is surprisingly fun! This is in large part down to the guys I go with, and the fact that getting exercise here can actually be quite difficult so finding a way to release my pent up physical energy feels good!

 
Those little dots in the centre of the picture are cyclists - I promise!

There are a few other fun forms of exercise which occasionally present themselves, this weekend was my first Papua New Guinea bike ride! The roads were mostly incredibly bumpy which meant that most of the time I could see two lots of the beautiful scenery. I have to admit I spent more time looking around than looking at the road, so that probably didn’t help! I was more out breath than I think I should have been, but I’ll blame it on the altitude! It was so good getting out on the tracks and stuck into the Papua New Guinean countryside, it’s so stunningly beautiful, I guess I must say that a lot, but it still takes my breath away (the steep incline helped with that too). We decided to turn around and back home by a small group of houses where a small group of people came out to talk to us and share stories. It was lovely talking to them (or mainly listening in my case as my Tok Pisin is good enough to understand what is going on, but not good enough to talk). As we were getting ready to leave a lovely lady gave me a bag (locally called a Bilum) and told me that if my Mum ever came to visit me I had to bring her there so that they could meet each other!
The turn around point